Side by side tasting is revealing, yet complicated!
What a joy it was to have traditional fruit cake lovers over for a local Slow Food Edmonton Tasting in January. I want to do this a couple of more times, until I complete the development of my fruit cake recipe to incorporate all of the positive aspects from what I learn during these tastings. I am very happy with my own traditional Canadian fruit cake recipe, yet it is still evolving as there isn’t enough colour in it yet, and I do prefer it without nuts. Light fruitcake must have nuts, in my opinion, but I may prefer dark without nuts. I will test that theory next year when I add more colourful fruit, and do half with nuts and half without. I also need to resolve the texture issue as mine slices perfectly when frozen, but tends to crumble as it is so moist when at room temperature. Yet, if sliced when frozen, the slice will hold its shape when eating. Odd, eh?
I do love entertaining, but haven’t done any for ever so long. Been rather reclusive this past year, and what a pleasure it was to fill a tray with some of my homemade cheeses and other concoctions for my guests to dive into before the official tasting. I stepped down from my position as Vice President of Slow Food Edmonton after several years in that role. It was time for a change and I am delighted to announce a series of Slow Food Edmonton Tastings that I will be hosting at my home this next year.
Take a look at the schedule and plug the dates into your calendar. If you want to participate, the instructions are here and each event will only succeed if we get a variety of participants interested in tasting delicious local food and heritage recipes. I am very excited about these events.
I was delighted to serve the end of my Traditional Christmas Cookies and Tarts, as well – but embarrassed when I tasted my Lebkuchen to find it as hard as a rock! It was plated too long. The ones in my tin are still moist and delicious. (red face)
I invited Brendi and Margaret to come early, for tea. Margaret is a local food blogger at Kitchen Frau and we read and comment upon one another’s cooking experience, yet have never met. Brendi is a regular reader who has rarely missed a post. He reflective comments are so revealing and enjoyable that I simply had to meet her when I found out she was living nearby, as well. There wasn’t enough time…
I had never met Brendi (a taster) or Margaret (a fruit cake baker), yet I had a cyber relationship with each. However, Ingrid, Stuart, Katherine, Margaret (again) and Katherine’s mother, Patricia, were all people I had never met before. Each came with the warmest of enthusiasm and the most gorgeous Traditional Canadian Christmas Fruit Cakes to share.
We visited, got to know one another a little, and then I explained the tasting process, and the room was silent for quite some time. Tasting tomatoes is very different. The room is noisy with chatter and sharing of taste, flavour and palate opinions. I hadn’t realized how personal this would be, but as soon as it started, it was apparent.
Don’t put your names on the paper. Be as honest as you can about your tasting experience and we will not do a debriefing at the end of this today. I yet had to figure out how to do that when people are presenting such an intimate sharing of their family culture with such loving pride.
First, every cake was delicious, yet all were not “fruit cakes” to me. A fruit cake, from my experience and knowledge base, is to be moist, more fruit than cake, very dark, if it is a dark cake, with a mix of traditional seasonal spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, etc.) and must include an alcoholic component. It may or may not include nuts.
It will be interesting to see how others interpret what a fruit cake is and it was very revealing to me to taste each of these side by side. After the third one, or by the third one, my palate and nose was dead. I had to go back and forth many, many times and in differing orders to try to get a sense of the nose, flavour, texture, and overall appeal of each. It was really difficult. I believe I was even beading a bit on my forehead. Seriously. And, tasting sweet food is even more difficult than savory, for me, anyway – as the “full factor” kicked in and though I tasted small bites of each, was having difficulty discerning the nuances within.
As I hadn’t sliced my cake in advance, it crumbled as it was very warm. That was embarrassing to me, and affected my focus, at first… yet, it was authentic and something in my recipe that I am determined to tweak. Just looking at each sample above, it is evident how different they are. Immediately, I was drawn to the light one. It was gorgeous. To me, that is exactly how a light fruitcake should look: studded with jewel-toned fruit with little cake. That is my goal for my dark cake, too. I will definitely leave my fruit pieces larger, next year. Mine is sample 5, above. It looks nothing like the photo below that I took when I wrote about making this cake and my family expectation for a fruit cake. If I was having these feeling, I can only imagine the feelings of the other participants, yet each was truly scrumptious.
I also included a tasting wheel for a focus on vocabulary and taste possibilities which I will add to the end of this post. Below is a compilation of all of the impressions from each taster within each category. A ? mark indicates that there was no number assigned by a person for that specific category. The total at the end only means this: This cake was had the “best over all impression” within the small group of tasters at the event this day. The results could be completely different another day with another group of tasters as one’s palate is very personal.
| 1 | 4,3,4,3,4,3
4,4 = 29 |
3,3,5,3,4,4
5, 5 = 32 |
3,4,5,1,4,4
4,4 = 29 |
3,4,5,1,4,4
4,4 = 29 |
3,5,4,3,4.5
4,4,4 = 36 |
?,5,?,?,4,4,
,? ,? |
155 |
| 2 | 5,2,3,2,3,4
4,3 =26 |
4,4,4,2,3,3 4,4 = 28 |
3,3,3.5,1,3
4,4,4 = 25.5 |
3,3,3.5,1,3,
4,4,4 = 25.5 |
3,3,4,2,3
3,4,3 = 21 |
?,4,? ,?,4,4
,? ,? |
126 |
| 3 | 5,3,3,2,3,4
3,4 = 27 |
4,4,3,2,3,4
4,5 = 29 |
3,3,3,1,2.5,
5,4,3 = 24.5 |
3,3,3,1,2.5,
5,4,3 = 24.5 |
3,3,3,1,3
4,3,4 = 24 |
?,3,? ,?,5,4
,? ,? |
129 |
| 4 | 5,5,5,3,2,5
4,4 = 33 |
4,4,3,2,3,4
3,4 = 31 |
3,4,3,2,2,4
2,3 = 23 |
3,4,3,2,2,4
2,3 = 23 |
3,5,4,2,2
3,4,4 = 27 |
?,4,? ,?,5,4
,? ,? |
129 |
| 5 |
5,4,4,4,4,4 4,4 = 33 |
4,3,3,4,4,3
?,5 = 26 +? |
4,4,4,3,3,3
4,3 =28 |
4,4,4,3,3,3
4,3 = 28 |
4,4,4,3,3.5
4,4,4 = 30.5 |
?,4,? ,?,4,4
,? ,? |
145.5+? |
| 6 | 5,5,5,5,2,5
?,5 = 32+? |
4,3,4,1,3,4
5,4 = 28 |
5,4,4,4,3,4
4,5 = 33 |
5,4,4,4,3,4
4,5 = 33 |
5,5,4,4,3 3,4,5 = 33 |
?,4,? ,?,5,5
,? ,? |
159+? |
According to our tasting on this day, the light fruit cake made by Patricia was the slam dunk overall favourite. Ingrid’s fruit cake made in her vintage fruit cake pans (image at the end of this post) was second. Mine was a distant third and the other three very close.
I have scribed the comments made by the taste testers below. If the words are repeated, it is because more than one person said the same thing. The comments are in note form.
I was surprised at how little fragrance or “nose” that most of these cakes had in the open air on a plate. Opening the wrapper or the container holding one of these perfumed concoctions, the musky, earthy, fruity aroma licks all the way back onto my palate and has me salivating before I can even remove the cake. Yet, very few had much of a nose in the open air.
Comments for Cake #1
No spice or alcohol detected by the nose; mild spice flavour; dense, moist and chewy, pungent and moist; caramel colour with a nice balance of fruit and cake; looks moist; fruity with brandy notes; citrus, apple and brandy flavour; nuts are a well balanced texture contrast; moist cake: something is a bit stringy, not sure if it is coconut or nuts; lovely classic fruitcake: well balanced and flavourful, dark moist dense, raisins; earthy, citrus, floral, black dark finish; varied texture; yum; dark caramel with floral notes; bitter finish; fruity ginger; fruity earthy, sticky moist with lots of fruit and nuts; like the large pieces; earthy flavour; no spice on the nose; fruity, moist and surprised so little spice on the nose
Comments for Cake #2
Subtle, intriguing; raisins stand out well; dry and moist combination; cake with fruit looks lighter in texture; nuts and fruit visible, tastes like a spice cake instead of a fruit cake or like a raisin bread; the fruit is the accent to the cake but not main element; hint of yeast, dry and not moist; like a spice cake with fruit and nuts; lighter cake, less moist but spicy cake with an alcohol burn at the finish; light and dry, pungent, oxidized; apple fruit, chemical, dry, earthy; alcohol evident, hot pungent caramel molasses taste; crumbly, sparse in fruit, more of a cakey texture, top is moist with crumbly bottom
Comments for Cake #3
Light, love contrast of nuts to the fruit; dense, but a bit dry; cake with fruit is lighter in texture, nuts and fruit visible with some holes in the cake; spicy and a little tart, nice with currants and spice; nuts are dry; not as dry as it looked; nice balance of fruit and nuts; no fruit colour; light, cakey, fruity, spice after taste, more like a cake than fruit cake; citrus, alcohol, dry, darker and fruity; fruity with a chemical after taste; dry, fruity, floral; fruity, woody with coffee notes and orange blossom; cake dry but fruit is moist; studded with fruit and nuts; fruit flavour limited, less fruit, drier cake
Comments for Cake #4
Delicate, dense, moist and slightly chewy; moist, nutty, jewel-like fruit; candy like sweet and moist; a hint of bitterness from zest or peel, nutty flavour with alcohol notes; moist with nutty texture and dark gum base; candy sweet burn, citrus, colourful and sweet; fruity, oxidized, pungent with chemical notes; most fruity and very moist; fruity with caramel; fruity and very moist and juicy; very moist, not enough cake; fruity, gum drops, spicy with a hint of liquor, moist
Comments for Cake #5
Bourbon is a wonderful counterpoint, dense and moist; pudding-like, looks very moist, alcohol notes, no spice noticeable; bourbon prominant, figgy pudding flavour, moist and nutty; moist and fruity, very dark and sweet; dark fruit, oxidized, pungent with chemical notes; most fruity with nuts; fruity with caramel, earthy and pungent; fruity and moist; fruity and very moist with strong alcohol flavour; fruity and moist
Comments for Cake #6
Wonderful light fruitcake; ruby golden light fruit cake; not much scent; some orange and sugar notes; sweet, fruity with almond orange notes; moist with candied fruit texture; little toothsome element from nuts; pretty, fruity jewels, no nose, but moist, sweet, and so colourful; colourful; light fruity floral notes, moist and crunchy; fruity, little smell, caramel, moist; white, fruity, cherry-nutty flavour; moist
Margaret and I are missing from the above photo. I am taking the photo and Margaret had to leave early, but picked up her tastes later in the day: Jens (Slow Food Edmonton Communications and the only person I knew before the tasting), Ingrid, Leisel (who brought mincemeat and gorgeous mincemeat tarts, also shown at the end of the post), Patricia and her daughter Katherine, Stuart, and Brendi.
This is before we started the tasting.
I learned so much from this tasting which I have noted for my next year recipe. If you would like the recipes for any of these cakes, please let me know in the comment section below, and I will send them to you. The most enjoyable aspect of this tasting was meeting each of these wonderful people and sharing a taste of a traditional heritage family recipe with each one. I was remiss as I didn’t ask each the story behind the recipe. Next time. And I certainly hope this crowd will regroup for another tasting. Already, they have expressed an interest in getting together to swap sour dough starter samples. I think I will put the bug in Slow Food Edmonton’s leader, Chad Moss, to run with that idea.
Thank you so much, each and every one, for this incredible opportunity and experience! The winning recipe follows!
Patricia's Orange Almond Light Fruitcake
Inspired by Light Orange Almond Fruitcake from The Canadian Living Christmas Book 1993; Modifications by James Bullock.
Ingredients
- 3 cups or 750 mL or 420g good quality mixed candied fruit
- 2 cups or 500 mL or 300g golden raisins
- 1 1/2 cups or 375 mL or 315g) halved candied cherries
- 1 1/2 cups or 375 mL or 295g coarsely chopped candied pineapple
- 1 cup or 250 mL or 140g candied citron peel
- 1/2 cup or 125 mL white rum
- 2 cups or 500 mL or 290g all-purpose flour
- 2 teaspoons or 10 mL baking powder
- 1/2 teaspoon or 2.5 mL or 5g salt
- 1/2 cup or 125 mL or 114 g) salted butter , softened
- 1 cup or 250 mL or 200g granulated sugar
- 3 large eggs
- 1 tablespoon or 15 mL finely grated orange zest
- 1 teaspoon or 5 mL almond extract
- 1/2 cup / 125 mL Grand Marnier orange liqueur
- 1 1/2 cups or 375 mL or 200g) chopped slivered (or blanched) almonds
- 1/4 cup or 65 mL Grand Marnier orange liqueur
Instructions
-
Combine first 5 ingredients in extra large bowl; dd rum and toss until coated
-
Cover for 2 to 3 days in a cool place
-
Line two 9 x 5-inch (2 litre) loaf pans with 3 layers of parchment paper
-
Whisk together flour, baking powder and salt in medium bowl; set aside
-
Cream butter and sugar together until light, then eat in eggs, one at a time; stir in orange rind and almond extract
-
Add 1/3 of flour mixture to egg mixture stirring to combine; add 1/4 cup Grand Marnier until combined
-
Repeat with another 1/3 flour mixture, 1/4 cup Grand Marnier and remaining flour mixture, stirring each just until combined
-
Stir almonds into fruit mixture; gently fold batter into dried fruit mixture
-
Divide and press into prepared pans
-
Preheat oven to 250°F or 120°C
-
Set a shallow baking dish filled half way with boiling water on lower oven rack; place loaf pans on centre rack
-
Bake for about 2 1/2 hours, or until wooden pick inserted in centre comes out clean. (You may need to cover the cakes with foil for the last half hour if beginning to crack or browning too quickly.)
-
Remove pans to wire racks and brush with remaining 1/4 cup of Grand Marnier; cool completely
-
Remove from pans; discard parchment paper
-
Wrap cakes in cheesecloth that has been drizzled with a small amount of Grand Marnier or brandy
-
Wrap in foil, seal in freezer bags and store in cool place for up to 1 month or freeze for up to 1 year
Recipe Notes
Slices best when cold.
Below are the gorgeous Mince Tarts that Leisel brought. We compared her mince meat made with butter instead of suet to mine made with green tomatoes. Both were markedly different, yet clearly mincemeat. Mine was much lighter and hers was heavier, but in a good way. Aren’t they sweet? Her pastry was also delicious. I got to keep the leftovers. Lucky moi!
Ingrid’s vintage Christmas Cake pans follow.
Above is the wheel we used. Below is another good one.
I read your article on fruit cake with interest. I have always loved Claxton fruit cakes which are sold by charities. I have moved from Ontario to British Columbia
and havent seen them since moving. However a few years ago I got the fruiit cake bug. I saw a recipe on Uncle Phaedrus and decided to give it a try. It had
very little batter compared to the amount of fruit. The unique aspect of this cake was that each fruit was cooked in a sugar syrup separately. I made only
one syrup but cooked all fruits separately. The cake was divine. The depth of flavour because of the cooking in syrup improved so much. It was well received
and everyone said “more”. The unfortunate part is that I have health issues that dictate what I am supposed to eat (or not eat). I ate way too much of it, although I savoured every drop, and quickly gave away the rest.
Let me know if you are interested in knowing more. However you can research this on your own by going to the Uncle Phaedrus website and looking under
fruit cakes.
I have enjoyed your column since I recently discovered it. You are way way more committed to food than I ever was, although I have enjoyed many years
of entertaining. It was great fun, and very rewarding, but alas part of the past now.
Thanks.
S
I will take a look at that fruit cake, S! Thank you for the idea. If you are a local reader, I hope you will consider joining us in any future tastings!
Sincerely appreciate the information and heartfelt comment…
🙂
Valerie
I would love the fruit cake recipes. I remember my great grandmother’s recipe covered with almond paste. It was a dark cake with lots of fruit but no peel. I have searched for a like recipe for years and have tasted some great cakes
Which recipes, specifically, Janet? Anyone out there have a recipe with lots of fruit and no peel?
🙂
Valerie
That was such a lovely day Valerie, I had so much fun. It was so nice to meet other people who are as passionate about food as I am and look forward to meeting again. Brendi
Completely agree!
🙂
V
I am sad I missed most of the meeting, but am glad I got to meet you and Brendi before I had to leave. It was a truly enjoyable visit. And I loved having my samples afterward. Reading your write-up of the tasting event was very informative – thanks very much!
Were your taste experiences similar to those of the small masses that participated, Margaret?
🙂
V
all looks delicious! still ove my Aunt Lucille’s Steamed Christmas Cake the best! 🙂
Well, where is her recipe?
Write it down here!
🙂
V
Thank you Valerie for hosting this lovely afternoon. I was so excited to come to your house and finally meet you. The treats you had prepared for us were amazing and your homemade cheese was so good. I have always loved christmas cake so a christmas cake tasting was a dream come true! My favourite was #6 as well, I plan on making my grandma’s recipe this year and it would be interesting to compare it to this recipe (hint, hint:) ) I am honoured to have had you taste my mincemeat (also my grandma’s recipe) and my pastry. I loved sharing ideas with other Edmontonians passionate about homemade food and the passing on of traditions. I look forward to more events like this.
-Liesel
Wonderful, Liesel!
Hopefully, you may consider joining Slow Food Edmonton and become part of the group that plans and organizes these kind of events. But, at the very least – YES – I do hope we reconnect at more of these events! So lovely to meet you!
🙂
Valerie
I enjoy your article on Fruit Cake, it seems that in these times, so many people have turned away from traditional fruit cake. Our family continues to love it though. I would appreciate the recipe for #6. Our favourite cake is dark, a recipe for a good light one, would be lovely. Thank you for sharing.
Yvonne!
I will see what I can do for you! I have posted the recipe in the post now.
🙂
Valerie
Love fruitcake, and have made a light fruitcake for years, with slivered almonds, coconut, candied cherries, peel & pineapple. My mother got the recipe
from her friend and made it her own.
I would like to start making a rum soaked cake & would love to get the other recipes from you.
Many thanks!
Denise,
Lovely! Part of the agreement was that all recipes would be sent to me prior to this tasting. They weren’t. Nor after, so the only one you will find is mine. Search for it in the search bar, top right.
🙂
Valerie
I have Tremendously enjoyed reading all about your christmas fruit cake adventures…..
Thanks you so much for sharing! You are very generous to share your recipes with us. 🙂
Having been married a few years, I am getting brave enough, that I think I will try making fruit cake for the first time.
Ive never attempted it before, but this is the year….
I intend to try at least 2 or 3 recipes this year. But don’t have the benefit of a family recipe.
After reading a lot of them, they tend to vary a lot! Some have coffee, some don’t, some have molasses, some don’t….
I do have some definite ideas of what I want it to be like….
1) must have lots of glace cherries
2) no dates
3) must have booze
4) must have lots of spices
5) must be dark
… I’m on the fence about nuts. Think I need to try it with and without nuts.
your recipe sis definitely on the list as one of the 2 or 3.
Is bourbon really central to your recipe? Have you ever tried any other type of alcohol?
I am really tempted to try brandy, but am not sure if it might overwhelm the flavours…..
Yes, rookie cook, rookie questions…..
Here is a recipe I was considering trying from http://www.rockrecipes.com note… If I do try this one, I might make a few substitutions (for the prunes and dates.)
Old English Dark Fruit Cake
Prep Time
45 mins
Cook Time
2 hrs
Total Time
2 hrs 45 mins
Old English Fruitcake – A dark, rich, well spiced old fashioned English style fruitcake that can be made weeks in advance of Christmas.
Course: Dessert
Cuisine: British Inspired
Servings: 40 This is a large cake meant to be served in small pieces. There are easily 40 portions or more.
Author: Barry C. Parsons
Ingredients
1 1/4 cups chopped dried prunes (6 oz) chopped
1 1/4 cups chopped dates (6 oz) chopped
1 1/2 cups dark raisins (8 oz)
1 1/4 cups golden raisins (6 oz)
1 1/4 cups currents (6 oz)
¾ cup butter
1 cup dark brown sugar
¾ cup molasses
½ cup coffee liqueur or ½ cup strong black coffee
Zest and juice of 2 oranges
1 cup chopped glace cherries
1 cup candied citrus peel
1 1/2 cups toasted pecans (7 oz) roughly chopped
2 tsp allspice
2 tsp cinnamon
2 tsp powdered ginger
1 tsp cloves
2 tsp nutmeg
3 tbsp cocoa
3 eggs
1 1/3 cups all purpose flour
½ cup ground hazelnuts or almonds
½ tsp baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
US Customary – Metric
Instructions
In a large saucepan melt the butter over medium heat and add the raisins, dates, prunes, currents, brown sugar, molasses, spices, coffee liqueur (or coffee) and the orange zest and juice.
Bring to a gentle boil and very slowly simmer for 10 minutes.
Remove from heat and allow to cool for 30-45 minutes.
When cool stir in the beaten eggs.
Sift together, flour, cocoa, baking powder, baking soda.
Add the ground nuts and fold through the boiled mixture. Fold in cherries, citrus peel and pecans. Pour into prepared baking pan. You can decorate the top with additional pecan halves, cherries etc., if you like.
Bake at 300 degrees F for 1 ½ to 2 hours depending upon the size of your pan. Mine took the full two hours in a 10 inch spring form pan.The cake should feel firm to the touch at the center and a wooden toothpick inserted into the center should come out clean. The cake should be cooled completely in the pan on a wire rack before removing.
At this point you can poke small holes in the top and bottom of the cake with a fork and pour on 4 ounces of dark rum or your favorite whiskey, half on the top, wait ten minutes, then flip it over and pour the remaining half on the bottom.
Soak several layers of cheesecloth in additional rum if you like and wrap completely around the cake, then cover with several layers of plastic wrap and store in a COOL place.
When serving, you can add a layer of marzipan or if you have decorated the top with fruit and nuts, brush with a simple glaze of equal parts water and sugar boiled together for about 10-15 minutes.
I was wondering if you could share the recipe for cake #4 from the tasting…. It might be the third one to try.
Happy baking!
You have clearly been doing your research. Unless you have a lot of experience, making a fruitcake recipe tried and true is the best place to start with no substitutions. Then go from there. I prefer no nuts, too!
🙂
V
I am an amateur fruit cake baker myself and I did make the one you posted for this year. I did sub cherry brandy for the alcohol component and added a jar of my homemade cherry preserves I also cut down on the nuts didn’t use prunes or dates and I added coffee liquor rather than the coffee! Let me tell you, my family who don’t really care for fruitcake have all tasted a sliver and can not wait for Christmas! Hope this helps! Happy Baking?
Cate!
Glad to hear from you and that you were inspired to make a fruitcake!
Happy Holidays!
🙂
Valerie
I am SO happy to find this gorgeous recipe for light fruit cake. It is absolutely delicious and I wanted to pass on my thanks for our new favourite. I also learned to candy my own orange peel which is also about to become a Christmas favourite. Two modifications: I used 1 whole cup of rum to soak candied fruit as it had obviously absorbed the 1/2 cup by the end of day one. Also, I did not chop cherries and left them whole.
Thanks for chiming in Connie!
Glad to find another fruit cake lover as there seem to be so few of us!
Thank you, also, for providing confidence in this recipe to others.
Big hug to you!
Happy holidays!
Valerie
Hello Valerie, I was so happy to find your site, I have been looking for a light fruitcake recipe to try for my family and friends for Christmas. you seem very connected to the foodie community, I was wondering if there would be anyone who would have a fruitcake recipe made with applesauce. I remember my grandmother making a beautiful moist Christmas cake made with applesauce, candied fruit, and sometimes including pecans. It was super moist and delicious. Do you have a recipe that could potentially be modified? thank you
Hi Lori Ann,
Lovely to hear from you. I will place your comment here and hopefully, those already on this strand can assist you. I don’t know about this recipe – but someone surely will. Fingers crossed!! Sounds so delicious!
Cheers!
Vaelrie